Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. There is convincing research—both in vitro (in a test tube) and in vivo (on a live subject)—showing kojic acid to be effective for inhibiting melanin production (Source: Archives of Pharmacal Research, August 2001, pages 307-311). Glycolic or kojic acid, or glycolic acid with hydroquinone, are highly effective in reducing the pigment in melasma patients (Source: Dermatological Surgery, May, 1996 pages 443-447). So why aren’t there more products available containing kojic acid? Because it is an extremely unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn a strange shade of brown and lose its efficacy. Many cosmetic companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is far more stable in formulations. However, there is no research showing kojic dipalmitate to be as effective as kojic acid, although is it a good antioxidant. Further, some controversial research has shown kojic acid to have some carcinogenic properties (Sources: Mutation Research, Genetic Toxicology and Environmental Mutagenesis, June 2005, pages 133-1450 and Toxicological Sciences, September 2004, pages 43-49).
Archive for the ‘Skin Care Articles’ Category
Kojic Acid and Skin Care products
Thursday, July 2nd, 2009AHA, Alpha Hydroxy Acids Skin treatment
Thursday, July 2nd, 2009Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)—primarily in the form of lactic acid and glycolic acid—are the most researched forms of AHAs because they have a molecular size that allows effective penetration into the top layers of skin. It is generally assumed that in and of themselves AHAs in concentrations of 4% to 15% are not effective for inhibiting melanin production and won’t lighten skin discolorations in that manner. Rather, it is believed that their benefit is in helping cell turnover rates and removing unhealthy or abnormal layers of superficial skin cells (exfoliation) where hyperpigmented cells can accumulate. However, other research has shown that lactic and glycolic acids can indeed inhibit melanin production separate from their actions as an exfoliant on skin (Source: Experimental Dermatology, January 2003, supplemental. pages 43-50).
Either way, there is a good amount of evidence that in combination with other treatments—such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, laser resurfacing, and, of course, an effective sunscreen—AHAs can be very effective for improving the overall appearance of sun-damaged skin and possibly helping other ingredients better penetrate skin. While there is no comparative research in regards to salicylic acid (BHA) and its effect on melasma, it makes sense to assume that because salicylic acid exerts a similar action on skin as AHAs, it will have similar results for improving skin color.
Much like laser treatments, alpha hydroxy acid peels (using 50% concentrations or greater) have impressive results for removing skin discolorations (Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, February 2005, pages 149-154; Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, April 2004, pages 97-102; Cutis, February 2004, supplemental, pages 18-24; Dermatologic Therapy, June 2004, pages 196-205; and Dermatological Surgery, June 1999, pages 450-454). Only a physician should perform these types of facial peels.
Anti Aging skin products w/ alpha hydroxy acids by Clear Essence


